Photos from MeadowMom

Ice Hiking in British Columbia 13

Powered by Drupal

Remembered Forever by a Very Few

(continuing the photo story of a journey made 64 years ago.)

At the very top of Icefall Point we came across this monument. No sign or plaque, and none needed. We had done our homework, reading the American and Canadian alpine journals. We knew who was the owner of that pair of skis, and what had happened to him.

In the early 1930s Mount Waddington, looming over the great ice basin at the head of Franklin Glacier, was the most coveted unclimbed peak in North America. Articles appeared with titles like "Will Waddington Ever Be Climbed?" Of course a half dozen expeditions set out immediately to try to do it.

In July 1934 a small group of Canadians began their attempt. Among them was Alec Dalgliesh, a young man who made his name among the Vancouver climbers by heaving boulders at an unstable pinnacle until it broke and fell, thus making the spot where he was standing the new summit of the mountain. During the ascent of Waddington, Alec slipped and his hemp rope broke (a thing that happened pretty regularly in the old days.) He fell free more than 500 ft. into a bergschrund and was entombed by the glacier. Before his friends returned to civilization they built this monument in his memory.

Two years later a strong German climber named Fritz Weissner came up the Franklin bear trails to Waddington, guided by Jim Stanton. He brought strange new techniques that most North American climbers had barely heard of: extreme crack climbing, pitons, the modern dynamic belay. He and his climbing partner had good luck with the weather, and they were the first to take turns standing on the summit of Mt. Waddington.

Next.
 

by Author
MeadowMom MeadowMom's picture

This Story is part of a Series...

(Here in California, we’re into the lemonade nights of late August. A good time, I guess, to tell... Read Story
This is me in 1952, on the little island steamer, Cardena, feeling quite rejected. My young husband... Read Story
(I’m telling the story of how my husband and I, college seniors, went north on a small British... Read Story
(More about a journey made by two young college students in 1952:) On Monday morning we arrived at... Read Story
(I’ve been telling the story of the greatest wilderness journey I ever made, 64 years ago.) I’ve... Read Story
(This is a 60 year old publisher’s publicity photo. Left, Laurette Stanton, right, Jim Stanton. In... Read Story
The Mouth of the Franklin River, at last! (This happened 60 years ago, to two young Californians in... Read Story
Lunch on the Franklin River. (Talking about an epic backpack trip in 1952.) A rare open space in... Read Story
The Snout of Franklin Glacier, 1952 A very gray photo, but it's important to the tale I'm telling... Read Story
Playing on the Ice. (About a 1952 journey that I will always remember) It was delightful once we... Read Story
The Great Icefall of the Franklin (Continuing the story of a hike into the British Columbian... Read Story
The Most Amazing Moment (Carrying on the story of a journey into the wilderness of British Columbia... Read Story
Remembered Forever by a Very Few (continuing the photo story of a journey made 64 years ago.) At... Read Story
It’s Time to Show You Mt. Waddington Itself (This is a photo story about a walk up the Franklin... Read Story
Luxury is Always Relative (On with the story of a trip to the Waddington ice fields, in 1952)... Read Story
In the Zone (This is a photo story of a trip into the Waddington Ice Massif in 1952.) It was on... Read Story
The Last Four Days (I’ve been telling a photo story about a journey made 64 years ago.) We left the... Read Story
I took this photo on the day when faint clouds began dot-dashing over Dauntless and Vigilant, like... Read Story
MeadowMom's picture
by Author MeadowMom

Your comments are loved and appreciated.

Start a Story of Your OwnStart a Story Icon

 

The text of your story.
You can upload audio and video here.
By submitting this form, you accept the Mollom privacy policy.

Do us a favor - 
Please take 2 minutes and give us feedback. Thanks!

Story Copyright
03/22/17